Stephanie Gilmore

The seven-time world champ on making the jump from high-school straight to the world tour, Snapper Rocks etiquette, and more.

Dave Parmenter

The surfer-shaper-writer-critic on surfing “then” versus “now,” and how to keep riding waves interesting in mid-life and beyond.

Laird Hamilton

The definitive waterman on his adrenaline-junkie beginnings, his Millennium Wave, and more.

Kelly Slater

The most accomplished surfer ever on omens, the virtues of being vulnerable, his odyssey through fame, what the future looks like in midlife, and where to find inspiration after redefining the pinnacles of performance. 

Tom Curren

The stylist on his foray into professional surfing, his proudest moments, commercialism, The Search, the California waves that shaped him, surfboard design, and his biggest inspirations. 

Joel Tudor

On winning a world title at 45, Pipeline, his greatest mentors, the importance of style, and turning pro at the age of fourteen.

Yvon Chouinard

On climbing, breaking the rules, protecting what you love, the virtues of simplicity, capitalism and Patagonia, surfing Malibu in the golden era.

Gerry Lopez

On his Pipeline love affair, minimalism, finding stillness, the shortboard revolution, yoga, and his relationship to fame.

Ashley Bickerton

On his art career, resisting the Gauguin fantasy, despoiled paradise, his manifesto, misanthropy, his ALS diagnosis, and finding beauty in the everyday.

John John Florence

On measuring success, photography, letting go, confidence, approaching challenges with a positive mindset, the balance between performance and playfulness, and his mother’s influence.

Nat Young

On Byron Bay, “Magic Sam” and the shortboard revolution, surfing’s commercialization, crowds, and paying homage to surf history.

William Finnegan

On Barbarian Days, long-form writing, conflict reporting, traveling, nonfiction narrative, surfing Long Island, and finding an audience.