Rob Machado
On surfboard design, finding bliss, and his famous high-five.
On surfboard design, finding bliss, and his famous high-five.
On Pipeline, getting creative in the lineup, and growing up on the North Shore.
On the fundamentals of breathwork, writing books, and Ocean Beach.
On tube riding, the virtues of simplicity, and dealing with loss.
On airs, the value of making art, and flying his freak flag.
On Echo Beach, surfing Wedge, and the surf industry’s heyday.
On photographing big-wave lineups, storytelling, and facing mortality.