Editorial - Page 8 of 142 - The Surfers Journal

Ep.8

Jack McCoy

On MacGillivray Freeman Films, learning through trial and error, storytelling, water cinematography, Mark Occhilupo, resisting repetition, and the power of the soundtrack.

Ep.7

Darryl “Flea” Virostko

On growing up in Santa Cruz, his nickname, channeling fear and adrenaline, his worst wipeout, addiction and asking for help, and Maverick’s.

Ep.6

Aska Matsumiya

On the parallels between surfing and musical composition, collaborating with her heroes, authenticity, self-expression, the power of simplicity, piano, the value of improvisation, and taking…

Ep.5

Gordon “Grubby” Clark

On the evolution of surfboard design, market domination, perfecting polyurethane, government regulation, and Blank Monday and the end of Clark Foam.

Ep.4

Cliff Kapono

On the power of science, his journey through higher education, Kaiser Bowls, environmental activism, navigating social hierarchies in Hawaii, and traditional surf craft.

Ep.3

Steve Olson

On surf devotion, sidewalk intimacy, knee paddling, off-the-lip skating, checkerboard patterns, the theatrics of style, punk music, Dogtown, and fatherhood.

Ep.2

Coco Ho

On surfing against her brother in a heat, the world tour, her twin-fin fascination, creativity, her surfboard label, and getting waves at Backdoor.

Ep.1

Nat Young

On Byron Bay, “Magic Sam” and the shortboard revolution, surfing’s commercialization, crowds, and paying homage to surf history.

Trailer: RE-MOTE: The Lost Reels

Watch 38 minutes of never-before-seen 16mm camera original outtakes from Albert Falzon's 1972 classic film, Morning of the Earth.

32.6

The Vee

In 1967, Bob McTavish’s Plastic Machine, and its unique bottom contour, helped usher in the shortboard revolution. More than 50 years after its initial creation,…

A Moment of Reflection 2023

A tribute to the wave riders we lost this year.

Choice Cuts

A selection of some of our favorite stories published in 2023.