Editorial - Page 7 of 142 - The Surfers Journal

33.1

Tales from the Picture Stream

John Bilderback's Lens-Eye Literature.

33.1

Evolver

The 100 (or thereabouts) most impactful postmodern wave riders, as ranked by surfing’s preeminent arbiter.

33.1

The Shock of the Blue

Tahitian movement, light, and aesthetics.

33.1

Amphibious Enduros

Welcome to “the event,” a swim and scramble through one of the most complex and ecologically rich sections of California’s coastline.

33.1

Blank Expression

Proof of Concept

The unlikely surfer-shaper alchemy of Harry Bryant and Joshua Keogh.

33.1

Digging at the Roots

David Mesfin’s film Wade in the Water explores Africa’s rich aquatic history and the modern Black surfing experience.

33.1

The Slender Man

A small scratch into nonagenarian Dick Metz’s large surfing legacy.

16.1

More Than My Share

Bev Morgan discusses the people, culture, and influence of surfing.

William Finnegan

On Barbarian Days, long-form writing, conflict reporting, traveling, nonfiction narrative, surfing Long Island, and finding an audience.

Shane Dorian

On pursuing his dreams, Todd Chesser and Brock Little, a brush with fate at Himalayas, training, and how to get in position at Jaws.

Jaleesa Vincent

On self-embodiment, taxidermy, her band, dealing with tough crowds, the Rage gang, the surfers and artists who inspire her, airs, and finding liberation in being…

Ep.9

Nate Tyler

On his Central California roots, eschewing competition, filming, pathways to success, shark encounters, family, making art, and creating opportunity.