Editorial - Page 24 of 142 - The Surfers Journal

31.4

“Let It Breathe, Love…”

Bordeaux, Centurion lounges, and a Chernobyl-class Speedo sunburn.

31.4

Turaco in the Drylands

Meeting a Swiss with seemingly bottomless primitive skills in Baja.

31.4

A Handmade’s Tale

Theories on the art of shaping surf craft by hand.

Ep.8

Tom Curren

The stylist on his foray into professional surfing, his proudest moments, commercialism, The Search, the California waves that shaped him, surfboard design, and his biggest…

Ep.7

Mason Ho

The magnetic freesurfer on manifestation, picking reef out of his teeth, hanging with Tom Curren, surfing IQ and the tour education, music, transitioning from landing…

Ep.6

Dibi Fletcher

The Fletcher family matriarch on what fuels her endlessly-inspired disposition, watching her sons pit themselves against nature, the virtues of being fearless, challenging social norms,…

Ep.5

Nathan Fletcher

The charger on the dance between grief and greatness, the evolution of professional surfing, nonconformity, and his heaven-sent wave at Teahupoo.

Ep.4

Paul Theroux

The bestselling author on self-discovery, escaping your roots, the multifarious ways in which we relate to the world around us, the surf-travel connection, freedom, and…

Ep.3

Brian Keaulana

The waterman on “designing danger” as a Hollywood stuntman, eschewing labels, training for wipeouts, the aloha spirit, the visceral connection between fear and enlightenment, and…

Ep.2

Paz Lenchantin

The bassist for rock band Pixies on the surf-music connection, minimalism, the symbiosis between growth and tragedy, and finding forms of expression—on stage and in…

Ep.1

Kelly Slater

The most accomplished surfer ever on omens, the virtues of being vulnerable, his odyssey through fame, what the future looks like in midlife, and where…

The Clouds Conceal the Volcano

An excerpt from TSJ 31.3’s profile of Dane Kealoha.