Podcast - Page 5 of 6 - The Surfers Journal

Dibi Fletcher

The Fletcher family matriarch on what fuels her endlessly-inspired disposition, watching her sons pit themselves against nature, the virtues of being fearless, challenging social norms,…

Nathan Fletcher

The charger on the dance between grief and greatness, the evolution of professional surfing, nonconformity, and his heaven-sent wave at Teahupoo.

Paul Theroux

The bestselling author on self-discovery, escaping your roots, the multifarious ways in which we relate to the world around us, the surf-travel connection, freedom, and…

Brian Keaulana

The waterman on “designing danger” as a Hollywood stuntman, eschewing labels, training for wipeouts, the aloha spirit, the visceral connection between fear and enlightenment, and…

Paz Lenchantin

The bassist for rock band Pixies on the surf-music connection, minimalism, the symbiosis between growth and tragedy, and finding forms of expression—on stage and in…

Ep.9

Kelly Slater

The most accomplished surfer ever on omens, the virtues of being vulnerable, his odyssey through fame, what the future looks like in midlife, and where…

Ep.8

Laird Hamilton

The definitive waterman on his adrenaline-junkie beginnings, his Millennium Wave, and more.

Ep.7

Mike D

The Beastie Boy on how he found his way to surfing, risk-taking, and the making of “Sabotage.”

Ep.6

Dave Parmenter

The surfer-shaper-writer-critic on surfing “then” versus “now,” and how to keep riding waves interesting in mid-life and beyond.

Ep.5

Emi Erickson

The charger on the possibility of a big-wave gene, the joys of the single-fin gun, and sexism in the lineup.

Ep.4

Dane Reynolds

The electric freesurfer on the benefits of irony and self-deprecation, being recognized in the grocery store, and more.

Ep.3

Thad Ziolkowski

The award-winning author on surfing and addiction, the double-edged nature of the surfing life, and meditation.