Excerpt - Page 2 of 5 - The Surfers Journal

The Eye of the Hunter

Derek Dunfee’s evolution from big-wave surfer to big-wave photographer. Excerpted from TSJ 29.3.

Back From Hell

Unpacking our hard-wired fascination with surf trip disasters. Pulled from TSJ 29.2.

Under The Great Wave

How a 200-year-old woodblock print still reverberates across the visual landscape, from the hyper-stylized cartooning of Japanese manga to the scale and focus of modern…

Tranquila La Plaza

For a hundred or so local surfers, day-tripping Sinaloa is—tentatively—back on the table.

“You Won’t Go”

Taking stock of the North Shore’s culture of youthful challenging that pushes the limits in heavy water. From TSJ 28.5.

Regrets Only: Dirty West

Bad decisions and alphanumeric survival tactics at Cloudbreak.

Party at the Roosevelt

Read a section from the new book “Cocaine + Surfing.”

The Sikerei of the Islands

A traveling surfer finds shamans, tattooists, and cultural collisions deep in the Mentawai. Excerpted from the new issue of TSJ.

Heidegger and the Paipo

Ancient versus modern design—and the “unreasonable demands” of technology.

No Man’s Land

Into the predation cycle with white sharks and orcas in Gansbaai. Excerpted from the new issue of TSJ.

Cutting Edges

Underwater projections from “the great cosmic Mentawai experiment.”

Best I Ever Saw

Pat Rawson on Tom Carroll’s “forgotten” 10-point wave at Pipe.