Essay - Page 5 of 6 - The Surfers Journal

One Hundred Waves in Solitude

Twenty-one days of seclusion along the coast of Eastern Canada.

27.1

One Hundred Waves in Solitude

Twenty-one days in self-induced seclusion along the coast of Eastern Canada.

26.6

The Gunman on the Hill

The 1979 California Stubbies Pro vs. the Last Soul Surfer.

26.5

I Cut Off a Friend

Surfing’s rules are nebulous—where they exist at all.

26.4

Needle Drop

Laguna Beach sound and vision in Five Summer Stories.

26.3

African Echo

Reverberations of Hynson and August still carom in Senegal.

The Impermanence of All Things

Surf sessions, catastrophic earthquakes, and the difficulty of experiencing time and place in the immediacy of living.

26.2

Counting Down

The impermanence of all things.

The Legible Element

Mind surfing with lauded Victorian poet Gerard Manley Hopkins, who had some surprising intuitions about the “selves of waves.”

26.1

The Legible Element

Mind surfing with lauded Victorian poet Gerard Manley Hopkins, who intuited a lot about the “selves of waves.”

On the Wild Edge in Alaska

“For a while it was scary. Then it was simply my surfing life.”

Long Term Relationship

The benefits of working with a single shaper for life.