Essay - Page 4 of 5 - The Surfers Journal

28.1

Unity With Our Fellow Creatures

Spontaneous order and social dynamic theories in a crowded lineup.

27.6

The Big Tradeoff

Pondering life-quality versus wave-quality in Scotland.

27.5

Supplemented

Performance-enhancing drugs in surfing may have more to do with the mind than the body. What does that say about surfing as a sport, as…

27.4

Sunburned Mercury

A chance discovery in a Jack London archive might finally illustrate one of surf history’s greatest chapters.

27.4

Lucky You Surf

Greer surfed, and occasionally shot craps. He’d never been to Hawaii, but that didn’t mean he wasn’t lucky.

Meditations in a Surf Emergency

“You’d think I was a con. The way I set things up. I said nothing to no one. The things you do for surf.”

27.3

Meditations in a Surf Emergency

Fear of missing out remains surfing’s biggest motivator.

Leaving Las Vegas

A United States surf citizen charts his path.

27.2

Leaving Las Vegas

A United States surf citizen charts his path.

One Hundred Waves in Solitude

Twenty-one days of seclusion along the coast of Eastern Canada.

27.1

One Hundred Waves in Solitude

Twenty-one days in self-induced seclusion along the coast of Eastern Canada.

26.6

The Gunman on the Hill

The 1979 California Stubbies Pro vs. the Last Soul Surfer.