Essay - The Surfers Journal

34.1

Beautiful Lives & Beautiful Deaths

Mortal liminality at the crest of a breaking wave.

33.6

Lessons By Thrashing

What’s the difference between defeat and noble capitulation? Occasionally, the ocean will send a signal.

33.5

Religious None

Soul surfing, from the Hawaiian kahunas to Ram Dass.

33.4

Tuna Taper

From Darwin to Boeing, from Edwards to Greenough, we call upon the shaper to explain.

33.3

The Jungle Endures

A modern Grajagan survey.

33.2

The Brakes Kill. The Gas Pedal Saves.

Near-death experiences and point runners in the Baja desert.

33.1

Noseride Obsessive

“The whole thing feels like a cool, sophisticated LSD trip.”

32.6

Surfing is a Joke

Why so serious?

32.5

Penultimates

Evolution, expiration, the gods, and wave riding as viewed from a tropical seawall.

32.4

In Suspension

We only spend a tiny fraction of our lives actually riding waves. The rest is spent waiting—and obsessing.

32.3

The Houseboat Paradox

Midlengths, masscult, and the universal pull toward surfboard singularity.

32.2

Searching for Koa

A simple side-rip can become an odyssey.