Soundings: Episode 57

Matt Warshaw

On finding his way to surfing, his friendship with Jay Adams, his first Jeff Ho board, cultivating ambition, writing, Ocean Beach, attending Cal Berkeley, and the Encyclopedia of Surfing.

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Matt Warshaw grew up surfing in Los Angeles at a time when surf and skate culture were beginning to meet in Venice Beach and Santa Monica. After a stint as a pro surfer in the 1980s, Warshaw became the editor of Surfer magazine. In 1990, he left his editor’s post at Surfer to attend UC Berkeley, where he got his BA in History in 1993. He remained in the Bay Area, parking himself in an apartment in the Sunset District and in countless Ocean Beach barrels. Warshaw’s writing expanded into lengthy essays, profiles, and books—many books—among them Maverick’s: The Story of Big-Wave Surfing, Above The Roar: 50 Surfer Interviews, Photo/Stoner, Surfriders: In Search of the Perfect Wave, Surf Movie Tonite! Surf Movie Poster Art, 1957-2005, and more. His Encyclopedia of Surfing, first released in 2003, is the most comprehensive tome of surf culture in existence, and he followed it up with 2010’s The History of Surfing, a beast of a book that makes music of Warshaw’s encyclopedic knowledge. His most recent venture is the EOS dot surf, which is an invaluable online resource for surf obsessives, and features the “Sunday Joint,” a reflective op-ed style email that Matt shoots out to subscribers every Sunday. In this episode of Soundings, Warshaw talks with Jamie Brisick about the golden days of surfing in Los Angeles, the value of exploring someone else’s world, the importance of preserving history, the challenge of creating a database, his first Jeff Ho board, EOS, and the art of writing economically.

Produced by Jonathan Shifflett.
Music by PazKa (Aska Matsumiya & Paz Lenchantin).

Feature image courtesy of Matt Warshaw.